Jungle Adventures (Kankai Gir)
Gir forest of Gujarat has always been a source of inspiration for all the people of Gujarat. Main reason is biodiversity of Gir and the scenic beauty at Gir. From hot-springs at Tulsishyam to Fabulous water falls of Jamwada, Gir has attracted everybody by its fascinating stories. From the childhood itself I have never missed a chance to visit even a single place in Gir forests.
Being a teacher, I always encourage my students to visit Gir and different places of Gir. Once such place is Kankai temple. Kankai temple is located in the Gir National Park. I prepared a team of sixteen students who were very young boys and girls and five my friends who were teachers. I remember it was year 2007 and the day I selected was the day of Dhanterasa. Everybody was very excited when I proudly gave them tour details which mentioned places like Tulsishyam, Kankai Temple, Banej Temple and Jamwada waterfalls. I had also printed a photo of Asiatic lion and had boldly written- a chance to meet lions.
On the day of Dhanterasa we left Gondal at 5:30 in the morning and reached our first destination that was Tulsishyam. Students had enjoyed bath in the hot water springs and everything was going as it was written in the plan. All were very happy and clicking photos of scenic beauty and jungle trees and almost everything. Some of the students and fellow teachers insisted to climb a small hill over there. I gave them permission and they happily climbed it. Then everybody took there seat in the Metador and we started our journey to Dhari. The sky was clear and atmosphere was superb. It was just a perfect day.
At 11:00 a.m. we reached Dhari and students were now impatient. On the way, they had frustrated me a lot by asking the same question “Sir, where are lions?” I explained them that this was jungle and they could be anywhere. I was also aware of the fact that lions like to hunt in night and during the day time they rest as the temperature is high. So, in day light the chances of seeing lions were very less. Then, from there we reached Dalkhaniya check post. The moment I got down from the vehicle I felt something strange. I told one of friend Hardik that today I was feeling quite strange there. He answered in a joke and we laughed. After formalities we proceed further.
The real jungle was alive in front of us. Age old trees somewhat of light brown in colour or sand colour started to appear. The sun was shining on them and on dry grass. Everything seemed to be of same colour. The driver was driving were slowly. I explained the children that it was hard to spot even the deer due to that. It was like a camouflage of nature. Everybody in the Metador was enjoying from all possible windows. One of the boys took out a big binocular and tried to focus on something. Everybody started to talk about what they were seeing. Deer were in plenty, those spotted deer. They were almost twenty in a group. On the way, monkeys were great fun for children.
Peacocks were found in large numbers in that region. Students insisted to stop the vehicle to have a click of Peacock as one of the students, Rathin Patel was a son of photographer and he had with him a very expensive professional camera but I explained them that it was against the rule and we could not stop our vehicles in National Park. We were given permission to Chhodawadi Check Post only. The road was blessing for us. Actually there was no road. The trail in forest on which we were moving was made for the sole ST bus which comes to Kankai Temple. I guessed that on that day we were the second visitors on that trail. There were very big stones and pits on the way and the driver had drive very carefully.
Anyway, the children were enjoying a lot. I too was very excited as always whenever I visit this place but there was a doubt in mind about lions. If we don’t see any lions then the tour would be considered as a failure. Students wouldn’t get worth for their money. That was my trouble. My fellow teachers were busy with their game of cards and least interested in Gir. We reached the Chhodawadi Check Post and were given Permit to visit Kankai Temple. Usually, the gate was opened by guards but there was some confusion at the gate. I went there by walking as there were some peacocks which might be pets of foresters. I was told that there was bus of pilgrims who wanted to go to Kankai but they were not allowed by foresters as the bus had low suspension. I requested the guard to solve the issue because they were wasting our time.
Soon the gates were open for us and we left for Kankai. The road to Kankai temple is a treat. Those twelve Kilometers in jungle are a worst nightmare for any driver. My driver Munna bhai started telling his stories. He told that he had visited Kankai every time and never returned without facing any problems. I started soothing him like a child that this time he would face any trouble due to roads. Suddenly our vehicle hit a big stone that was right in the middle and we heard a sound of something stuck below the vehicle. I got down and saw that no damage was done. Driver started to drive very carefully and slowly. Children were bored of very long and tiresome journey and they had become hungry. We had lot of food with us but I insisted to reach Kankai first.
After half an hour we had left the Check Post we reached to point which is my favourite, the river crossing. Sonrakh River or her tributary comes in the way. The river was very shallow but the driver stopped and asked one of friend to check the level of water. He went there in river and the water was hardly one foot in the river. I too got down and started to look around. My friend told that the place was waste but I knew that we could find lions in these places. We crossed the river and then we had to climb a slant way. The slant way is round about 55 degrees from the river bed. It is a tough climb for any driver. Our expert driver anyhow managed to climb the slope and we were there. At that moment, he described the difficulties in driving on those roads and now also Kankai was five Kilometres away. The trail on which we were moving sometimes had small mountains on both sides. It was a narrow trail. We were keen if there were leopards on them because twice or thrice I had noticed them in those places during earlier adventures. Leopards are of very shy nature. They ran or vanish as soon as they saw us. I saw some monkeys and soon from distance we could see Kankai temple.
On reaching there, all were relaxed. We went to temple. There were some photos clicked by Rathin. All went inside the main temple and sought the blessings of Kankeshwari Devi. The Goddess Kankeshwari is known as the Goddess of lions. People tell that lions come for worshipping her during dusk time when the Aarti is performed. From the temple we could see the river and a dense jungle where there must be sixty to seventy lions. There was an old man who appeared quite strange and was talking with some of our students. I went there and started to talk with him but he didn’t talk with me and left the place. We were asked by a local person of temple if we wanted to have Prasad but I refused saying that we had our meals with us. Actually, tasty meals were prepared by my mother for us. Soon, I collected all the members and sat in an open place in the compound which was used for parking of the vehicles. When children were taking lunch two of my friends went back near the corner of the main temple but I ignored that fact.
In few minutes that strange old man which I had met in the main temple appeared and told that two of my mates were smoking cigarettes in the temple and that was not good. I apologized for them and scolded my friends that they should not smoke in the temple compound. Then, we took our lunch. After lunch in open air compound, I gave children some time to play with their flying dish and balls and I just relaxed. My friends were roaming in the main temple and nearby places. Outside the compound of temple there were houses of guards and trees. We didn’t dare to go near the river because it was prohibited. All were cheered and excited and I was busy discussing with driver about the next destination Banej or Khodiyar Dam near Dhari as a surprise change. Then again that man appeared and this time he was very angry. He scolded me a lot and told that my friends were again smoking and that time they were speaking bad words inside the compound. I promised that we might leave the place in half an hour.
For the first time I began to think why that man was so much concerned about that. I called my friends and everybody was in a mood to stay there. Nobody was willing to go to Banej and my friends questioned me about lions. I told them to keep patience for some time and I gazed at the sky. The sky appeared normal and it was light blue in colour. Again after fifteen minutes the man appeared and started talking with me. He boldly told me that I was the responsible person behind all these students and my friends. In a different tone of voice, he told that weather in this jungle was unpredictable and we must leave the place without wasting time. I couldn’t argue with him and I ordered everyone to pack their things and leave the place. Within ten minutes we sat in our Metador and the driver was quite surprised.
The time was half past two and we left Kankai for Chhodawdi Check Post. All were in quite jolly mood and discussing about strange behaviour of that old man. My friend, Hetal requested me to give him chance to sit in the first seat near driver but I hesitated. I was busy in taking photos of trees and small plants for my personal collection. Suddenly, there was change in the weather felt; we could smell of rain falling on the soil. There were small drops of rain on the glasses of our vehicle. We were looking out from our windows and driver began to drive fast due to fear of rain. Soon we heard sound of thunder followed by a flash of lightening. It began to rain heavily over there. Driver had turned on wipers but they were useless. Rain water was just splashing from top. The roots of the trees above the trails also sent water downwards. The trail which looked life-less during upward journey was like a huge puddle of muddy water. We could hear sounds of different forest animals which were enjoying the surprise of nature.
I felt that nature has become suddenly alive from a sleep. Water was everywhere, through windows it was coming in and it had made me wet. I thought that it would be a small shower, mavathu which might stop in five or ten minutes. I started to remember each and every word of that old man and began to think. Just then we arrived to that end of trail which had small mountains on both sides. The vehicle was moving very slowly and we came to that Munna bhai was really an expert driver. There were stones on the trail, rain water and visibility was zero. I was worried about the river which we had to cross. Munnabhai stopped at the slop and asked me to glance at the river.
I reluctantly got down because I had worn white cotton jeans with new shoes. I saw that the river water had risen to two and half foot. It was hard to believe my own eyes. The rain had become unstoppable and river water was just increasing by leaps and bound. Thousands of questions puzzled my mind. I thought how to cross the river in such a situation. The driver got down and pointed me that we might cross the river by walking through a narrow opening of river which had comparatively less water. I asked everybody to come out. We walked in pouring rain in the river that was becoming dangerous. I personally took everyone to a safe place near river and instructed elders to guard the younger ones. The youngest one was my niece Bansi. She was daughter of my elder sister and this was her first picnic in life. I again crossed the river and went to the driver and we decided that metador must cross the river then. He daringly plunged by the side of river and then there was a problem. By the side of river, there was lot of mud accumulated and metador couldn’t move in that mud. It was like a big swamp. When I went there, I too was stucked there up to my knees. Everybody was totally wet and our vehicle was badly stuck in that mud.
Driver tried a lot to take out the Metador from muddy land but every time it stuck more and more. He gave and came to place where we stood. He told that it was badly stuck inside mud and we had to wait for sometime. Children and elders had become restless as they were standing and watching that for half an hour. The rain was continuous and we were helpless against nature. Suddenly two foresters arrived on pulsar bike and investigated the matter. Instead of helping us, they lectured on not conducting this type of tours especially for children. They advised us to return to temple by walking or calling a tractor for toeing. To return to Kankai temple by walking seemed a dangerous option for all as it was evening time. They told that even if we reached Chhodawdi Check Post by walking we might not get any vehicle from there and we had to stay overnight with foresters.
I saw time in my watch. It was exactly 4’0 clock. I called Hetal and asked him what we could do; our meeting was followed by the driver and my friends. Everybody formed a group and decided that we should push the Metdor out and driver would start it and took it out. We tried a lot but it was a waste. From distance I could hear crying of one of my students and I went there. A student had gone to toilet and had seen a leopard nearby. He was very afraid. I was very afraid and began to pray Goddess Kankeshwari to help us. I kept two of my friends there for the safety of children and then Bansi started crying as her slipper went into river. I explained the little girl that I would buy her a new but not to cry.
I was totally tired, wet and exhausted. Again we decided to go into the mud and push the Metador. I was afraid by thought that if any child was slightly injured then what answer I would give to the parents. I ordered everybody to sing Hanuman Chalisa loudly and not to care about rain, mud, thunder, lightening or wild animals. I told them that Nature was testing us. Nature was checking how strong we were and not to worry about anything. Hetal and all the guys had deep faith and we were waiting for some miracle. Soon a White Travera car, a brand new even without number plates was apparent. Hanuman Chalisa by all the members made the atmosphere were pious.
White Travera stopped near us; I joined my hands to the owner not to cross the river and showed them our Metador which was stuck. Actually, our vehicle was in such a way that Travera could not pass the trail. Their driver got down and told me that the owner had sworn to go to Kankai with new Travera. They agreed to take some children with them during their downstream journey but it might take another hour. We made a plan I requested Travera owner and driver that we should throw some stones into muddy area and make a temporary road which might help both of us. Then everybody from my side and both the drivers picked up around four hundred big stones and made a temporary road. I myself collected big stones and gave to others.
I glanced at the watch and it was half past four and I was collecting big stones. My clothes were muddy and rain had just lessened. Small students were afraid and praying. I saw the owner of Travera sitting inside with Kurta Pajama and scolded him if he was our guest. I told that we were doing that for him and insisted that he should come out. He came out and stood before me and picked up a big stone. To our surprise that big stone had a brute black scorpion on it with its babies and in a fraction of second that scorpion stung him. That man was crying with pain and shouting like a mad man. I was feeling guilty but I thanked God that it didn’t bit any of my mates. I tied my handkerchief on the bite and ordered Travera driver to quit the place. The Travera driver in desperation took a U turn from the muddy area and somehow managed to go. Soon, they left the place without taking any students as they had earlier promised.
I called Hetal and Munnabhai and told that God is with us. He saved us and He would definitely help us. We all gathered and pushed the Metador. This time luck was with us. Beautiful work was done by Travera driver on mud as he took U-turn. He had made a trail for us and the rest of the work was done by stones. It was Five O’clock by my watch and we pushed it out of mud. Then I personally called everybody inside it and the engine of Metador was roaring. Soon we reached the Chhodawdi Check Post and I got down for formalities of returning Permit.
Two guards sitting over there scolded me lot for the happening inside the jungle as they were informed by Walkie-Talkie of two guards on Pulsar. I ignored them and washed my clothes and shoes with the drinking water that was in their pots. They told me that the Travera owner got bitten by Scorpion also complained about us that they couldn’t complete their Pilgrimage due to us. It was Half Past five and we had broken rule of jungle as the gates closed at Five O’clock. It was useless to argue with them and I gave them a smile and just left the place. Guards warned me to reach the next Check Post by Six O’clock otherwise we would be fined and punished for that.
I sat beside the driver on my seat and Hetal insisted to sit beside me. I and He were sitting on one sit and I selected the window side. We were leaving the Kankai area. On the opposite side we could eye at Banej Check Post but we could hardly think about it. Rains had totally subsided and I thought about the poor Travers owner who might be in terrible pain as he had to reach Dhari that was about 70 Kilometers from the site. He might be cursing us a lot. Nobody was in mood to talk. Elders were discussing that the tour was very terrible and their pitiable condition. I, Hetal and Rathin were aware of the fact that we were running out of time. I asked the driver to speed on. I glanced outside; entire environment had changed after rains.
The deserted trail looked superb and the grass on the periphery of the trail was appearing majestic. Trees seemed blushing after rain. The sun was peeping slightly and was sparkling its golden rays on each and every object. It was followed by jumble and rumble of birds. Deer were found grazing the juicy tuft of grass. We sped on towards Dhari. Our goal was to reach Dalkhaniya Check Post which was about fourty- fourty five Kilometers away from there before six O’ clock. Somebody made a point about lions but I angrily asked him to shut his mouth. I was thanking God for safeguarding our lives and helping us in that situation. Hetal told me that he would light lamps at his house infront of God as he had sworn and I told him that I had to do a lot as I also had kept lot of religious ceremonies to be performed as we had been saved. We talked about the gracefulness and serenity of the Kankeshwari temple and the compound.
It was quarter past six by my watch and we were far from our destination. We were helpless as the trail wasn’t helping Munnabhai to accelerate. I looked and stared continuously on the road and tried to him in his drive. The grass on that long patch of trail appeared of light brown colour and the surrounding trees resembled the same colour. I just quoted Hetal that Mother Nature was a great painter and we both were finding different colours of nature. At that moment, we saw a saffron colour shining from a distance about 800 meters. We realized that it was something different from usual; I ordered the driver to reduce the pace and asked the children for pin drop silence. It was dusk time and we could easily be mistaken with the domesticated animals of the Maldharis which lived near the Sap Nes. Our vehicle was moving with the minimum speed around 8 and we were noiseless. I gesticulated Hetal that there were two large Asiatic lions sitting on the periphery of the road on the driver side. They were 500 meters away. I announced everybody that it was there once in lifetime opportunity. Everybody was just on the edge of their seats and quarreling for window to have a glimpse of lions.
They were two male lions, stout ones; their mane was saffron with brownish tone. I took out my camera. Everybody was ready for the big action and every second appeared to be a grand moment. Slowly, the driver took the vehicle near them. Both of them appeared calm and relaxed. Munnabhai slowed down a bit near them. I clicked many photos of them on my simple camera. Rathin tried to start his professional camera but it didn’t started. My friends had low batteries in their simple Nokia Phones so they couldn’t click. The lions were looking fabulous. The might have come there because of intensive lightening and sounds of thunder. I realized that those lions were looking similar with the same kept near the idol of Goddess Kankai. The flash from my camera was creating a prism effect on the surrounding and lions were excited by it.
They jumped up and suddenly appeared before us. Munnabhai closed his window and moved slightly away from his seat. Both the lions were now just 1 meter away from me. They gave mighty roar as it was a roar of victory. They just encircled our metador and every person in our vehicle got a chance to have a close up of lions. Everybody was thrilled and excited. Being afraid driver just accelerated a bit and we were hardly 5 meters away from them. Again both of the lions came near the window of front side and this time one of the lions scratched near the radiator of the vehicle. Driver was very afraid that the lion might pounce upon the glass and attack us. I and Hetal firmly believed that it was the blessing of Goddess Kankeshwari Devi who was guiding us from the beginning of journey. It was a miracle. I insisted to open the front door but was strongly opposed by Hetal and he had hold the door by his had. I had foolhardy idea of getting down to see the lions. On the backside one of my friends had already opened the door and situation was becoming out of control. Again Munnabhai accelerated and we were 10 meters away from them. This time we could hear louder roars and again they were followed by mighty roars. Children sitting at the back shouted that there were lions everywhere.
When I glanced back, I saw that there were lions on both the sides. There were total seven to eight lions. Every person sitting on every side was seeing them. It was one of the most spectacular moments of life. I was amazed and speechless. In a wink of moment, the duo appeared near us. Then I signaled the driver to move on. We left the place with a heavy heart. Actually nobody was willing to go and the time seemed to have stopped at that particular moment. The image of lions was becoming faint. My promise to children was fulfilled and I felt completely satisfied. On the way, again the Spotted Deer and the monkeys appeared and we approaching close to Dalkhaniya Check Post.
We reached there at Quarter to Seven and I got down to return the Permit. The guard complained me that we had been very late and we were to be fined. I answered him that I would pay him any amount of fine and accepted my fault. I requested him to see my clothes, my shoes and explained him my condition. He was a good man and just let us out without any fine. We were again thrilled and excited. It seemed that we were riding on the horses of luck. We stopped near small stalls of Dalkhaniya village and ordered some tea. Hetal and Rathin just hugged me over there; our eyes were wet with tears. Everybody knew that we had escaped narrowly from a huge disaster.
I remembered that in the morning I got strange vibrations from this place. Suddenly I went to the tea-seller and asked him about rains. He boldly answered that there had been no rains for last one month or more. I was taken aback. Were the rains only for us? Was everything planned by destiny? Was Mother Nature testing me? Thousands of questions again puzzled me and I again ordered a cup of tea and I asked to make it bit stronger that time. Then, I ordered snacks for everybody and announced that they could buy anything or have anything and I would pay for it. We again started our journey towards home.
At half past eleven I returned home after dropping every person to their parents. I paid the fare to Munnabhai and he told that he would never go on tours to Kankai. At home, I had a strange welcome by my parents. On seeing my clothes and my conditions, I was first scolded a lot by mother. She insisted that I should buy a house over there and not to come home. She didn’t like my hobby of going to jungle. I narrated the entire incident to them and I was ordered to have a bath and then to perform rituals of lighting lamps to Goddesses in the temple in my house. I did it with full faith and devotion then my mother served tasty meals to me.
Whole night I lay half-asleep recalling every small and big incident in that tour. Next day was a holiday and I went to meet Hetal. Everyone in his shop was talking about lions and our adventures. We were very happy and I asked about the Newspaper. I traced Headlines in the newspapers that it rained 5 inches or more in the Centre Gir area and it was followed by thunder and lightening which killed two people over there. I just stopped reading and once again thanked Goddess Kankeshwari for saving us. Then I went to studio and gave my camera for developing photos. The man told that we would get the photos in evening.
Every tour participant was gathered at the class in the evening. We were joking and talking about the tour. One of my friend told that he had clicked the photos of lions but his Samsung Mobile was not starting. It had become totally useless because of rain water. Rathin told me that he couldn’t click photos because there was no battery left. Everybody was waiting for the photos from my camera. I and Rathin went to studio and the man charged us less amount. I asked him about that. He replied that there were only 22 photos in the roll. I was surprised. I told him that I had clicked all 36 photos. The man gave the negative and the negative was showing 14 photos of lions. The man told that they couldn’t develop last fourteen photos. They were of lions. I was shocked to hear that. The photos of lions were visible on Negative of the films but they couldn’t be developed, it seemed strange for me. I argued a lot and in the end the manager of studio came out explaining me that they were helpless.
Incredible but true! We had seen them but we couldn’t get their photos. Is it possible? Why were they sent? What was the message? Why could a single camera not capture them? Was it a miracle? Was it our foolishness? Was there a supernatural element?
The answers are yet to be found.
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